
Guest Author Scott Severson Lends His Expertise on Caring for Our Prized Lever Guns
By Scott Severson, HuntTested.com
Few firearms inspire the same loyalty and reverence as the classic lever-action rifle. Whether you’re toting a vintage Winchester 1894 or a modern Marlin 336 deep into the backcountry, proper care ensures your rifle performs when it counts—and lasts for generations.
In This Article:
This guide covers the essentials: field care, post-hunt cleaning, storage best practices, and the nuances of maintaining classic Winchester vs. Marlin designs.
Please share your stories.
While you’re reading, we encourage you to think about and offer up any stories you may have about your lever action rifles. What do they mean to you? What were your first experiences? We’d love to know your stories, so please feel free to use the comment section below to share.
Your lever-action rifle is built to withstand the elements, but like any tool, it benefits from proper care. Here’s what to keep in mind during the hunt:
Avoid Moisture
Water is the enemy of blued steel. If you’re hunting in wet conditions (rain, snow), wipe your rifle down regularly with a soft, absorbent cloth. If your gun gets soaked, you need to disassemble it when you return (more on that below) and dry and oil all internal components thoroughly. Water on your gun that is not attended to can lead to rust.
Pack a Bore Snake
A bore snake is one of the best field tools you can carry. After a dusty trail ride or a wet day in the stand, a quick pull-through keeps your bore free of debris and moisture. While it doesn’t replace full cleaning, it prevents powder fouling buildup and reduces moisture that could impact accuracy or cause corrosion.
Handle with Care
When I deer hunt in Iowa, I have to make my way to my stand in the dark through thick brush. When I go to my stand in the morning, I carry my 1895 Marlin in a lightweight briar-proof gun sleeve to keep it from getting scratched as I make my way through the thick stuff. When I get to my stand the sleeve rolls up and goes in my pack.
Pro Tip: Make a Portable Gun Care Kit
Years ago I assembled a gun care kit that I leave in the truck on every hunt. It’s a small plastic case with a waterproof seal. You can customize your kit to your gun. When I’m hunting with my lever gun, I carry the following:
- Gun Oil
- Bore Snake in the right caliber for my rifle
- Silicone gun cloth
- Clean microfiber cloth
- Toothbrush
- A gunsmith screwdriver that fits the finger lever screw
Every night I come in from the field, my gun gets a quick inspection and a wipe down with a silicon gun cloth. And if it’s been fired I clean the bore with the bore snake.
Once the season ends—or after an extended hunt—it’s time for a thorough cleaning. Here’s how to do it right:
Clean From the Breech (When You Can)
This is one of the main differences between Marlin and Winchester designs:
- Marlin rifles (like the 336 or 1895) feature side ejection and a removable bolt, making them easy to clean from the breech. Just remove the finger lever screw, pull the lever, slide the bolt out, and you can safely clean your bore from the breech and not mess up your rifle’s muzzle crown, which can affect accuracy.
- Winchester rifles, especially older top-eject models like the 1894, require much more effort and expertise to remove the breech bolt. For the average hunter, these rifles are best cleaned with a flexible bore snake from breech. If you must clean from the muzzle, use a high quality coated rod and an appropriately sized rod guide inserted into the muzzle to prevent the rod from contacting the crown.
- Of note: Winchester does offer take down models where the barrel and forend separate from the receiver. For the benefit of greatly simplified cleaning alone, you may want to consider a takedown model!
Removing the Forend
You should remove the forend any time your gun gets wet or you’re putting it away for long term storage. This will give you full access to the magazine tube and underside of your barrel for cleaning.
Removing the forend can be a little tricky and it’s easy to damage the wood during this process, so take your time and proceed with caution. I recommend finding a YouTube video for your gun, where a competent gunsmith shows you the steps for removal. And if you’re at all hesitant, your local gunsmith will likely show you how it’s done.
The Cleaning Process
Bore:
- Start with a brass brush on the cleaning rod and make several passes.
- Replace the brush with a patch jag lightly soaked in a cleaning solvent like Hoppes #9 and pass through several times and follow with a brass brush.
- With a patch jag, run a dry path first, followed by a patch with gun oil through the bore several times until it is coming out clean and finish with a dry patch.
Internal parts:
- Pay special attention to the bolt face, extractor, and magazine tube follower, which tend to attract grime and powder fouling. Clean well and lightly oil.
- Wipe down with a clean dry cloth.
Receiver and exterior:
- Wipe all metal with a soft cloth that is lightly oiled.
- Follow with a dry soft cloth to remove excess oil.
Stock:
- I wipe my stock down with a clean microfiber cloth. If needed, consider a quality furniture wax or gunstock conditioner—never use harsh cleaning agents on your wood.
While oil protects metal, too much oil is a threat to your stock—especially classic walnut. Excess oil can:
- Soak into the wood around the action and trigger
- Soften and discolor the wood over time
- Promote rot cracking and warping, particularly if stored in warm environments
After oiling your rifle, always wipe down with a clean dry cloth to remove excess oil.

Muzzle Down Storage
While it just looks wrong in my eyes, one of the most overlooked tips in firearm storage is to store your rifle muzzle down. Why?
- Gravity keeps any residual oil from seeping into the stock through the receiver
- Helps prevent oil pooling in the action
- Reduces the risk of oil reaching the buttstock—especially in tightly fit classic guns
Use a secure gun rack or cabinet that supports this orientation. If that’s not possible, make sure your rifle has all excess oil wiped away and is dry before storing muzzle-up.
Use a Dehumidifier or Desiccant
Store your rifle in a cool, dry place, ideally with a dehumidifier or desiccant packs in your safe or cabinet. Humidity and temperature swings are the top causes of rust and finish degradation.
Check Periodically
Don’t wait until next season to inspect your rifle. Pull it out at least once a month, wipe it down, and inspect for signs of corrosion or other issues.
Lever-action rifles represent a unique intersection of form, function, and tradition. Whether you’re hunting deer in the Northwoods or collecting pre-64 Winchesters, caring for your rifle properly preserves its accuracy, reliability, and value for decades to come.
At Turnbull Restoration, they’ve seen the worst and still brought them back to life—but they would rather help you keep your lever-action rifle in great shape. A little maintenance goes a long way.

By Scott Severson
HuntTested.com
Scott is the editor of HuntTested.com. HuntTested.com is committed to providing the best in-depth content, resources, and reviews on the gear that hunters need to be successful in the field. HuntTested covers guns, big game gear, upland game gear, camping, and outdoor feature stories.
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